Pantone TCX vs PMS vs TPG for Clothing
Pantone TCX, PMS and TPG are three different color systems. TCX is for dyed fabric, PMS is for printing ink on paper, and TPG is a paper version of the TCX colors for hard surfaces. Writing the wrong one on a tech pack is a common reason colors come back wrong.
Use Pantone TCX for dyed fabric, PMS Solid Coated or Uncoated for printed graphics, labels and packaging, and TPG or your trim supplier's chart for hard trims such as buttons, zippers and metal parts. A PMS number is not a TCX number, and one cannot stand in for the other.
What each Pantone system is
| System | Stands for | Made on | Code looks like | Use it for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| TCX | Textile Cotton System | Cotton fabric | 19-4052 TCX | Dyed fabric and lab dips |
| TPG | Textile Paper, Green format | Lacquer on coated paper, matched to TCX | 19-4052 TPG | Hard surfaces such as paint, leather, ceramic and metal |
| TPX | Earlier paper format | Lacquer on paper, replaced by TPG | 19-4052 TPX | Legacy references only |
| PMS | Pantone Matching System | Printing ink on coated (C) or uncoated (U) paper | 186 C | Printed graphics, labels and packaging |
Pantone states that its TPG colors correspond to the Textile Cotton System (opens in a new tab), so 19-4052 TPG and 19-4052 TCX are meant to match across paper and cotton. Pantone's cotton swatch card (opens in a new tab) is made from 100% cotton poplin and covers all 2,801 Fashion, Home + Interiors colors.
Which reference to write for each garment component
A garment uses more than one kind of color. Fabric is dyed, prints are inked and hardware is coated. Write the reference that matches how each part is made.
| Component | Reference to write | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Dyed fabric (shell, lining) | TCX | Send a physical swatch or fabric sample for critical colors and request a lab dip on the production fabric. |
| Rib, cuffs, drawstring, tape | TCX with dye to match (DTM) | Tell the supplier to match the approved main fabric and approve a lab dip for each material. |
| Thread | Thread maker's shade card | Ask the thread supplier for the closest shade to the TCX code. |
| Buttons, zippers, hardware | TPG or the supplier chart | These are hard surfaces. Ask which reference the supplier matches to and approve a physical sample. |
| Screen print or transfer ink | PMS C or U, as the printer specifies | Printing inks are mixed to print references. The printer confirms the book to use. |
| Hang tags and packaging | PMS C or U | These are printed on paper, so a printing reference applies. |
Your supplier's own chart takes priority. Trim, thread and print suppliers know which reference their products are matched to, so ask before you write it down.
Same number, different system
The Fashion, Home + Interiors system uses hyphenated codes such as 19-4052. The Pantone Matching System uses numbers with a letter, such as 186 C. They are separate books with separate physical samples, so a color that looks close on screen can still be a different color in the real world.
That is why the suffix matters. Write PANTONE 19-4052 TCX, not just 19-4052, and write PANTONE 186 C, not just 186.
What happened to TPX?
TPX was Pantone's earlier paper format for the fashion colors. The TPG format replaced it as a lead- and chromium-free formulation of the same kind of lacquer coating. If you find TPX in an old tech pack, ask your supplier to confirm the current TCX code.
What about polyester and nylon?
TCX is a cotton standard. On polyester, nylon or blends, the dye recipe still has to be built for that fiber. Ask your dye house which physical reference it matches to, request a lab dip on your actual fabric, and read why color looks different on cotton and polyester.
How to write it on a tech pack
Put the full code with its suffix next to each component, then add the approval method. A complete example is Shell fabric: PANTONE 19-4052 TCX (Classic Blue), lab dip on production fabric, ΔE CMC 2:1 ≤ 1.0. The tech pack color guide has copy-ready wording for every line.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use a PMS number for dyeing fabric?
No. A PMS chip is printing ink on paper, and a dye house cannot dye fabric against an ink chip in the same way. Use the TCX code for dyed fabric. If you only have a PMS reference, send it as a visual guide and ask for a lab dip against a physical swatch. The color converter can suggest the nearest TCX code from a HEX value.
Is TCX the same as Fashion, Home + Interiors (FHI)?
TCX is the cotton format of the Fashion, Home + Interiors system. Pantone offers its cotton swatch card in all 2,801 FHI colors, and its TPG paper guides show matching colors on paper.
Do I need TPG if I already have TCX?
Only for hard surfaces. TPG chips are lacquer on paper, so they suit paint, leather, ceramic and metal, while TCX cotton is for fabric. Many teams keep TCX for fabric and ask trim suppliers which reference their own charts match to.
Is TPX still used?
TPX was Pantone's earlier paper format. Pantone describes the TPG format as a lead- and chromium-free formulation of the TPX lacquer coatings, and TPG is the paper format it lists today. If an older tech pack says TPX, ask your supplier to confirm the TCX code. TCX itself is a separate format on cotton.
Sources and further reading
Need a lab dip or bulk dyeing from Bangladesh?
Send your TCX code, fabric and target tolerance with your tech pack. We will advise on achievable color tolerances for your production run.
Request a Lab Dip QuotePANTONE® and TCX are trademarks of Pantone LLC. SDF Clothing is not affiliated with or endorsed by Pantone. The color values on this site are approximations for reference and are not Pantone data.